Since starting his own winery in 2004, Rafael Palacios has fast become one of Spain’s pre-eminent producers of white wine. His 32 parcels (19.5 hectares) of Godello in the Val do Bibei in Valdeorras, produce some of Spain’s most interesting white wines. Sandy soils, derived from decomposed granite, limit vine vigour and the high altitudes ensure marked diurnal variation and a long growing season. The hills are so steep that most of the vineyards are planted on terraces buttressed by stones. His viticulture is low-intervention, with some of the older plots being farmed biodynamically.